
Who is this? Oh just our friend Harry Hinde.

Rachel with Africa in the background.

Lighthouse with storm clouds approaching.

Mosque with storm clouds approaching quickly.

Shrine with STORM CLOUDS ON TOP OF US!

Feeding some monkeys on Gibraltar.

La Linea=The worst place EVER!

The caves in Nerja

A Quaint town near Nerja. (Betcha can't say 'Near Nerja' ten times fast.)

Up the steep hill in the rickety old train.
Thursday: Lets go to NERJA! Nerja, Spain—On the sunny, breezy coast resides Nerja, where we went on Thursday. It is only 45 minutes by bus so we all woke up early to walk to the bus station. Well, I woke up later than everyone else. My iPod was still set to London time so instead of waking up at 8 I woke up at 9. Nobody felt the need to wake me up. Darn.
The bus trip was uneventful, except for the fact that someone put a dog in the undercarriage of the bus. It barked for the first 25 miles.
We arrived around noon and immediately found a gelato stand. Since man can’t live on gelato alone, we stopped at a local tapas stand (6 tapas for 5 euro)
The following is what I ate: Iberian Ham, Chicken Chutney, Smells cheese covered in sesame seeds, Spanish omelet, more smelly cheese (but this cheese wasn’t soft) slice of beef.
Now that we had all of these pleasant foods mixing around in our stomachs, we set off to tour the hillside city of Fideldergo, or Figerdelga, or Figerillo….it was something like that. We took a bus up into the mountains (it was only ten minutes away) and since we only had an hour to tour, we were convinced to experience The Famous Tram Ride! Picture one of the trains you see at state fairs or the zoo. Now take away the seatbelts, comfortable seats, and functioning breaks and you have our tram. The conductor was nice enough and promised that the tour would be in tres languages. So, we paid our four euros and set off up the nearest hill.
The conductor had a headset microphone that would only pickup half of what he said. From that half only a fourth was in English. From that fourth, an eighth of it was curse words and disgruntled mumbles each time the engine backfired. That left us with a very small fraction that was about and man was it informative. Apparently it was Europe largest paper (sneaker or plaster, the conductors accent was very thick) mill at one time. Also, the hills are populated by mountain ghosts. You can find their horns on the road occasionally. At one point, we had to wait for an old man to cross the street. Halfway across, he must have recognized the conductor, because he started waving his cane and yelling until the conductor let him ride shotgun.
After the tour, we explored the hills on our own until the bus took us back to Nerja. Maria, Rachel and I really wanted to see the caves that Nerja is famous for, but unfortunately we had missed the last bus that took visitors to the site. A local woman said that it was only 2 km and we could easily walk there. Turns out that 2km=5km in Nerja, because it took us 45 minutes to power walk there. We arrived with 45 minutes before the cave closed, but dang it if we weren’t going in! It was privately owned, so the prices were a little steep, but we saw the largest stalactite in the world as well as several large underground formations.
We managed to catch a city bus back and did some more walking before meeting up with the other half of the group for dinner. We lucked out on restaurants and we were able to get a three-course meal for 10 euro. A man with a guitar serenaded us for a bit before he realized that we had no money and he then left the restaurant. It took a little over two hours for our meal to finish so we ran to the city center to catch our bus back. A loverly day in Nerja.
Friday: LET’S GO TO GIBRALTAR!
Let me set the scene. I wake up to the sound of thunder. Rain is hitting the glass window that serves as my door and rain water is splashing through the cracks. I navigate the dark room, occasionally lit by flashes of lightning, to quickly dress and then wake up Rachel. It is 5:35. Time to go to Gibraltar.
We decide to catch the bus to the city center since it is pouring rain. There are a few students who are finally getting home from a club but other than that the hostel is silent. We run out into the street and wait under the dark, chilly bus station stall until the no 11 bus toodles on by. Unfortunately, there isn’t a bus that goes directly to the international bus station, so we had to run the 3/4th mile to shelter. We arrived soaked and freezing, but made the bus before it left. We sat in the front row and the next three hours were spent drifting in and out of consciousness. We made multiple stops between Malaga and Gibraltar so that the driver could pick up more passengers and so that the ticket assistant could take smoke breaks. Each time we stopped, the driver would leave the door open so that the cold air and the rain would blow directly into my face. I am going to avoid taking long bus trips from now on.
The bus pulled up to the station and everyone unloaded.
“Is this it? Is this Gibraltar?” I didn’t know what to expect, but what I saw wasn’t very pleasing. A run down bus station next to an ancient looking McDonalds ate up the scenery and you had to be careful to keep your footing on the broken coble street. Rachel and I wound our way to the La Linea (that’s where it turned out we were. Not the same as Gibraltar) tourist office. It was one of the nicer buildings in the city but we had to be careful going in the front door. The glass in the door was spiderwebbed from bullets being shot into it…or it could have been rocks thrown into the door. Lets go with rocks for now.
We spoke to the woman in charge and she seemed genuinely confused as to why we were there. Apparently nobody ever visits La Linea. I wonder why there was a tourist office? It turns out that Gibraltar was only about a quarter mile away, we had actually walked past in on the way to the tourist office. It looks like one giant military base. It actually is one giant military base. Surrounded by barbed wire and men with guns, this was our destination. Anything to get out of the big ball o’ joy that was La Linea.
We ate a quick breakfast/lunch of chocolate doughnuts, French fries and chicken before setting off to cross the boarder between Spain and the last little chunk of England. We went through customs where the man said “hello” in English and I knew that I was home.
A pidgin then decided to shit on my clothes.
After spending fifteen minutes in the Gibraltar welcome center bathroom, we headed out to see what there was to see. We really only had two things on our “to do” list: monkeys and Africa. There was a quaint little city center where we stepped in to see a glass blowing demonstration and then we worked our way over towards the water to catch a cable car up to the Gibraltar Rock. Turns out that the cable cars were closed due to high winds. We decided to walk.
We headed towards the botanical gardens to look at the native flora. The woman in the gift shop was mean so we didn’t stay long. There was a wildlife preserve that was under construction right up the hill from where the gardens were. We could see that it was filled with monkey. We like monkeys. We had to get in. I asked one of the workers if we could step in to look at the monkeys. He said “sure, no problem.” ( I don’t think he cared much for his job) He was busy chopping up a huge amount of fruit. I assumed it was for the animals so I asked, “Hey, is there anyplace nearby where we could buy some food to feed the animals?” He took the bait and tossed me a huge bag of white grapes “on the house.” We spent the next half hour feeding the monkeys and chatting with the construction workers and tourists watched from the outside.
Out the wildlife preserve and further up the hill, we hit a brief clearing where we could look out to see. What ho? What be that land across the sea? Africa! We have seen Africa! Our “to do” list now complete, we sat down and took a 5 minutes breather, not knowing what to do next. We heard that there was a great lighthouse nearby so we kept trekking up the hill. Around the rock we walked, seeing a gorgeous European shrine, a mosque and finally the lighthouse. By then the sky was looking pretty darn cloudy and it began to rain. We took shelter in a bus station by the lighthouse and waited. While we were waiting and snacking on mixed nuts that had been in my pocket for several days, a little balding man wearing all black, darted out from the nearby mosque and joined us under the stop shelter.
He began to make small talk with us and long story short—he is a “published” named Harry Hinde. He had recently finished a book called 666: The Divine Harmony and he was very interested in our travels. Not having much of a choice (pouring rain with the nearest shop being several miles away vs staying dry but in the presence of a true nutter) we decided to cut our losses and put up with his constant chatter. During the 30 minutes it took for the bus to arrive, Rachel and I learned all about “lay lines” the mapping of the cosmos, the interrelation between hell and the subconscious (?) world and several other incredibly confusing topics. FINALLY the bus pulled up. But wait, who is this now? Another figure, sprinting through the rain, wrenching open the bus doors as it pulls up. Its another bus driver, completely soaked to the bone and he is screaming at the current bus driver. The screaming was in Spanish so we didn’t know what exactly was going on, something about the current bus driver taking the best driving shifts. Fifteen minutes passed and we were finally let on, with the wet bus driver sulking in the back. The entire way back Harry kept talking. We were invited out for drinks, (we politely declined) he offered to walk us to the bus station (we politely declined) we even tried getting off the bus several stops early, but he insisted on showing us a shortcut to the bus station. Thankfully we were surrounded by people. So, Harry led the way, a bizarre mix between Mary Poppins and Willy Wonka with his large black umbrella and maniacal grin. I managed to snap a quick picture before we made our escape. We hid in a nearby candy shop to make sure that Harry wasn’t following us, then we made our way back to the bus stop.
Our bus was not supposed to arrive for another 30 minutes (We thought it was better to wait in La Linea. Maybe Harry wasn’t allowed there.) but there was one bus that was sitting, idling in the deserted bus station. The driver saw us and ran out to greet us.
“Where are you going?” he asked.
“Malaga, but our bus won’t be here for 30 minutes.”
“Ah, Malaga! I will take you now.”
Looking back, it was probably a poor decision to follow a strange man onto a strange bus in a strange country, but upon entering we met another American named Adam who was in the same situation. We both double checked with the driver that yes, he was going to Malaga. He just kept nodding his head as he shut the doors and sped off into the night. That was the end of that.
Turns out, the bus driver was true to his word. Not only did we arrive safely in Malaga, but we got there an hour and a half before schedule. Very nice! It was Friday and so a Stations of the Cross procession led towards the nearby church. Rachel and I followed for a bit before heading back to the hostel to pass out on the beds. It was definitely a trip of highs and lows.
Saturday: We were kicked out of our hostel at 11:30. Thankfully we were a block from the beach. We stayed there until 4, then got ice cream and headed to the airport. We arrived safely back. Yeah!
Well, that’s the end of that. Finally! Now off to Cork, Ireland tomorrow. More adventures to come. Thanks for reading!